Eat and Drink
Montisi people like their food, and they like it natural, produced fresh daily and without preservatives and additives. There is a local saying, "If I wanted to eat 'medicines' I would go to the chemist," which underlies this predilection for organically produced local foods, which covers everything from meat to fruit and vegetables. Most families run a vegetable patch, and much of the food that is available in Montisi, whether in bars and restaurants or from the village shops, is produced locally by traditional methods and delivered by the producer himself.
You can have a bite to eat in most of the bars, and sit down to some serious eating at any of the three restaurants. If you are lucky enough to coincide your visit with one of the traditional Contrada dinners, which happen at irregular moments throughout the year but particularly during the summer months, you will be treated to old-style, large-scale traditional catering at long tables and benches, served in the open air. The abundant food is cooked by the older men and women of the Contrada, and is served by the youngsters—endless courses and flowing wine in uncorked bottles.
Bars
• Il Rondo Run by Riccardo and Katya, this up-market bar has a wide range of good wines and serves excellent cocktails. It is open only during the summer months and is named for the outside tables nestling in the old turning circle for the horses and carriages opposite the hotel/restaurant La Romita.
• Il Barrino Gianluca and his family keep this little bar humming 18 hours a day throughout the year. It has an endless parade of clients from 6:30 a.m. when the first shots of coffee go to early risers on their way to work through the mothers on their way to school, the mothers with babies, the pensioners later in the morning, the midday aperitivo crew, a short break for lunch and then back on track for coffees after lunch and then on to midnight and beyond. Newspapers, magazines, CDs, and ice cream are for sale. It serves as theatre, cinema, ballroom, dining room, and debating chamber for the village—it is the social center of the Montisi universe. There is a room upstairs where the card-players go, and where the kids meet and play on the video games. Truly, no one is excluded!
• Bar Sportivo Up a steep slope into the centro storico of the village, this bar is run by the sports association to generate funds for the football club, the tennis facilities, etc. Definitely the least expensive bar in town, one of its greatest assets is free table football (fussball) and a ping pong table. Open evenings only.
Restaurants
• Ristorante La Romita Tiny restaurant (only five tables) serving the best food in the area, all organic and cooked by Cordon Bleu chef Giovanna. They have been serving this highly specialized menu (which changes constantly with the seasons and the inventiveness of the chef) for over twenty years, and Alberto Bindi claims that he coined the term "Slow Food" years ago, well before it became an important culinary concept, while Federico Fellini was amongst his close circle of clients. Booking is essential and don't be late!
• Il Rondo Good snacks are available, hot and cold, prepared in the kitchen of La Romita, just across the road.
• La Taverna da Roberto Traditional Tuscan fare in a pretty stable, with outside eating under a pergola in hot weather. The new owner has taken great care to introduce a high standard of cooking and presentation, with some traditional dishes from other parts of Italy. His wine list is excellent and expanding, including a range of sought-after regional labels. He often hosts food events organised by the local Slow Food Convivium or condotta. Tel: 0577-845159.
Shops
• Ricci Food shop and general store, with everything you might need from underwear and hairspray to the most delicious fresh delicacies (cheeses, sliced meats, and fruits). Irma has been running this shop for decades, and is the source of all knowledge about what is going on in the village. She is also the only supplier of bottled gas.
• The Girls They have decided to specialize in a range of high-quality meats and cheeses, as well as stocking all the groceries that you might require. They have deliveries of fresh local produce on a daily basis, and what needs storing is kept across the road in tunnels under the castle.
• Forno Rosati Verena is the village bakery supplying the village and surrounding areas with fresh breads, pizzas, ciaccia, paste (sweets), cakes and that wonderful smell of warm bread throughout the year. Verena's inventions are mouth watering like her nameless sweets which are a cross between ricciarelli and chocolate truffles.
Olive Oil Producers
Montisi has two olive mills, producing excellent quality olive oil from the 6 or 7 prefered local olive varieties. The mills use different techniques for extracting the precious olive oil, and each batch will have its own defining characteristic flavour, colour, and texture. There is also a number of small independent farmers with olive groves, some of whom you may be able to persuade to let you have a taste. Among producers who are allowed to label and sell their olive oil to the public are the following:
• Azienda Agrituristica La Grancia
• Frantoio Talini
Wine Producers
There is only one vineyard producing commercially available wines in Montisi. Now producing an excellent organic DOC Orcia red wine sold by the bottle or the case, they have a range of red, white, young and aged wines, plus their delicious and expensive Vin Santo. By arrangement you may also purchase red wine by the demijohn (54 litres).